When setting up the guitar, you can learn more about the structure of the guitar, which will be very beneficial in the long run. This guide will introduce you step by step to what you need to do to install and adjust guitar strings. It is very simple. As with anything else, the first step you need to take is a good set of tools.

Adjust the neck

Check the neck for straightness. Inspect the neck for signs of warping or bending. To be more precise, we use a ruler and place it on the frets along the long side of the guitar. Check both sides to make sure your neck is not twisted.

• If you want the neck to be slightly curved in, just bend the headstock a little toward the bridge. Guitar engineers call this curve the “convex texture” of the headstock. Leave a little space between the neck and the ruler. If the neck is bent in the opposite direction away from the strings (the middle is farther from the strings than the ends), there may be a problem that will affect the guitar’s playability, and you will need to go to a guitar shop for repairs.

If you think it’s nearing retirement, take another closer look. Check the string spacing and use the height of the D string to check the straightness of the headstock. After changing the strings, hold down the D string at the 1st and 22nd frets, or whichever is the highest fret on the tailpiece, and check the distance between the strings and the stringboard at the 12th fret. Ideally, you’d be able to slide a business card underneath. You can also use the strings as a ruler and check the straightness of the entire neck by holding down different frets.

• If you have a way to get a feeler gauge, get a capo and place it on the first fret. Hold down the lowest string at the last fret, and using your feeler gauge, measure the distance between the string and the eighth fret. About 0.254mm. If the measurement is greater than 0.1, you will need to use an Allen wrench to tighten the truss rod.

Once the truss rod is adjusted, the neck will naturally be straight. To adjust the curvature of the neck, remove the adjuster cap, which is usually located at the very top of the neck on most guitars, but may also be at the very bottom, near the bridge. Fine adjustments can be achieved by turning a moderately sized Allen wrench a quarter turn.

• If your neck is very convex, turn the Allen wrench counterclockwise to raise the strings. While doing this, slowly turn only a quarter of a turn, each time. Next, let your guitar rest for a while and make adjustments before checking or playing.

Check the angle between the neck and body. If the truss rod is set correctly, but the strings above the 12th fret are too far away from the fretboard, there may be an issue with the angle between the neck and body. Make sure the guitar is on a flat work surface and remove the strings before attempting to remove the neck. A lock-on neck can be achieved by removing four screws on the back of the guitar, making sure the joint is flush.

• The neck of the guitar needs to be parallel to the body, but usually, factory-made guitars have a lot of wood chips, which means that the neck will be skewed to varying degrees. If so, clean it before reinstalling the neck.
• If the neck angle is still not correct, use a “shim”, something thin like a Post-it note, will work great. Place it between the bottom or top two screws and tilt it back or forward. Once they are firmly attached to the surface and unable to move, you can bolt the neck back on. If you need a thicker pad, just fold the Post-it note.

Adjust string height and pitch

Adjust the string height of your guitar. “String height” refers to the distance from the strings to the fretboard. Players who are used to playing light strings can usually play with lower string heights, while heavier strings require relatively high string heights to prevent rattling. The most important thing is that the string height must be suitable for you so that it will not hit the frets. If you have two guitars, try the above steps on the second guitar first, then play on the better one.

Measure the distance between the bottom of the string and the first fret. This step will help you determine if the nut slot is cut to just the right depth. If the measurements don’t match or are close to spec, you’ll want to take your guitar to the store to have it done. The string height at the 20th fret determines whether the saddle needs to be raised or lowered. Listed below are some standard specifications for electric guitars:

• 1st fret treble – 1/64 inch (0.397 mm)
• 1st Fret Bass – 2/64 inch (0.794 mm)
• 12th fret treble section-3/64 inch (1.191 mm)
• 12th Fret Bass – 4/64 inch (1.984 mm)

Quick wrong adjustment. Assuming that the truss rod is in place and the neck angle is correct, adjust the height of the high E string so that it is about the distance of a standard U.S. coin at the 12th fret. A coin is slightly smaller than 1.6 mm. Maybe you want a smaller string height, just adjust it yourself.

• The G and B strings are adjusted similarly, but the low E, A, and D strings need to be wound on the fretboard.

Set the tone. The first 12 frets of the guitar are in tune, but the picking sound after the 12th fret is terrible. If this happens, it’s time to reset the tone. You need a bridge with an adjustable saddle. There are usually screws at the bottom of the bridge that allow the saddle to be adjusted forward or backward. Tone adjustment is the final step in assembling a guitar, as adjustments elsewhere can change the intonation of the instrument.

• When making adjustments, have the tuner ready starting at the low E string and check the overtones (notes on the fret) at the 12th fret, and the actual notes on the E string at the 12th fret. They should be the same. If it is different, you need to adjust the string distance.
• If the 12th fret is in pitch an octave higher than the natural harmonic, move the saddle toward the tailpiece to increase the string spacing.
• If the 12th fret is in pitch an octave lower than the natural harmonic, move the saddle toward the top of the guitar to shorten the string spacing.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining strings, and you’ll have a guitar that sounds pretty good. If you’re a perfectionist, take your guitar to a repair shop where Strob tuners are more accurate.

If necessary, try to be more precise. If some frets pop when you play, it may be caused by uneven frets. If you’re brave enough, try adjusting the frets to make them level. First, make sure the truss rod, string height, and neck angles are set correctly; too much neck curvature will make the frets more uneven. Then, if the frets still run up, you can use a plastic hammer to readjust them.

• If these steps aren’t enough, you can sand the frets. Make sure the neck is as straight as possible (don’t break the truss rods), the guitar is on a level surface, and tape is used to secure the fretboard and other surrounding items so that only the frets are exposed. Get a square piece of 100-grit sandpaper. All frets must be ground at the same time. Place the sandpaper horizontally on the frets and the high frets will be sanded like the rest.
• If the frets are particularly rough and uneven, it will be difficult to adjust. At this time, you may need to reinstall the frets and replace all the frets on your neck. Not only is it difficult and expensive, it is more cost-effective to contact a violin maker to do it.

Adjust the tremolo bridge. This is the most important step, only available on Floyd Rose, mainly to ensure the balance of the tremolo bridge. First, make sure the truss rod, string height, and neck angle are set correctly. While the guitar is articulating, look closely at the tremolo bridge. It should be parallel to the body of the instrument. If it’s not parallel, you’ll have to adjust the spring on the back of the guitar.

• Tune in again and check the tremolo bridge. Repeat this action until the tremolo bridge is parallel to the body of the instrument. Once completed, it must be tuned again, the string spacing adjusted again, and finally into tune. There is a chance that the tremolo bridge will move when you adjust the intonation, which will require re-adjustment of the springs, in which case resetting the intonation.

Tips

• Replace springs regularly. Use the same gauge spring. The choice of spring gauge is based on personal preference. Most guitars with a sturdier body will have lighter springs from the factory (.009-.042). Most jazz guitarists prefer slightly thicker gauges (.010-.046). Of course, Stevie Ray used a (.013-.056), and you really should try playing with different gauges until you find the right one. Thicker springs are ideal for playing slides, but if you bend the strings a lot, stick to a .009 or even .008 gauge.
• If your guitar’s strings are too far away from the fretboard, close to the nut (e.g., 1st fret), shorten the string spacing at the nut. However, this is difficult to do.